Category Archives: Gardening News

Berry Blasts of Autumn Colour.

As the nights are drawing in and the leaves being to turn, this season of mellow mists and fruitfulness gives a blast of autumnal colour in the form of shrubs loaded with berry colour. Here are a few that I think are worthy of a space, somewhere to catch the sunny spells and a good evergreen backing shrub can intensify their berry drama.

The Main Stays: Cotonester ‘Cornubia’ (wateri group), A handsome large shrub with arching habit and evergreen foliage. Making it a good inform hedge. White flower cluster sit up-right on the branches in mid summer and by the end of September beginning of October the bunches of red/orange fruit are forming and will be held on through most of the winter until eaten by the birds. Will grow on most soils including shallow chalk but not water logged ground.

cotonester 'cornubia'

cotonester ‘cornubia’

Pyracantha rogersiana ‘Flava’, A vigorous wall shrub or grown as a good ‘vandal’ proof hedge with it’s thorny spines. Small evergreen glossy leaves. Clusters of sweet scented flowers late spring give way by early autumn to masses of clustered yellow berries, that survive as long as the birds will let them. It makes a striking display. Growing conditions as above.

racantha-rogersiana-flava

racantha-rogersiana-flava

The More Unusual: Perrnettya ‘Pink Pearl’ A small dense forming evergreen shrub up to 1/1.3m high, small glossy green spine tipped leaves. Small insignificant flowers give way to masses of clustered round ball shaped fruit in a soft pink tint. Acid loving shrub growing in moist humus rich soils sun or part shade.

Hippophae rhamnoides, a striking medium to large evergreen shrub, with dark branches and thin clusters of sliver leaves. The ‘Sea Buckthorn’ can be found as the front line shrub growing next the coast, coping well with exposed sites and sea winds. It has mighty thornes, so makes a good boundary hedge in exposed sites. Its tiny white summer flowers give way to masses of small orange berries that clothe the branches in late summer and early autumn.

hippophae-rahamnoides

hippophae-rahamnoides

The Dame Right Quirky: Leycesteria formosa, a medium sized shrub, with a slightly shaggy habit and fast growing. White flowers in dropping panicles of dark red brats from June to September give way to striking berries a dark blue/black hanging in the red brats. Lasting well into the autumn.

leycesteria-formosa

leycesteria-formosa

Clerodendrum trichotomum fargesii, an elegant large shrub with upright habit. Grows well on humus rich soil. Fragrant white blush pink star-shaped fragrant flowers. Followed by china-blue berries in crimson pink brats make a stunning statement.

clerodendrum-trichotomum-fargesii

clerodendrum-trichotomum-fargesii

To The Double Blasters: Callicarpa bodinieri giraldii, a good well sized medium shrub, with small purple flowers mid-summer followed by clusters of tiny purple berries borne up the branches and lasting well after leaf fall. As the days get colder the leaves turn a pink and purple and along with the berries produce a striking effect.

Euonymus alatus, A medium sized shrub with a spreading habit and corky wings on the branchlets, slow growing in most soils and does well on shallow chalks. The insignificant flowers give way to striking berries, they hang down with outer bright orange capsules with shocking pink inner berry. These unusual berries are set against the stunning brilliant red autumn leaf colour.

euomymus-alatus-leaves

euomymus-alatus-leaves

euomymus-alatus

euomymus-alatus

So get out there and enjoy the other blast of autumn colour! Now is a good time to note the shrubs with the best berry colour, and add them to your garden planting. If you want help designing a autumn planting boarder, then give me a ring, tel: 01273 470753.

Fruiting Glory- The Apple Harvest.

As the days begin to shorten and the evenings and early mornings start to gain an autumnal crispness September brings the bulk of the apple harvest. With small trees, cordons, espalier and even step over apples, there is surely space in most gardens for this most quintessential of English garden fruit.

Sizes: M27 is on a root stock that will grow to approx. 2m in height, so easy for picking and pruning. If how ever you want to have an apple tree to sit under then you should chose MM106 which will reach 4 to 5m in height and give you that traditional Orchard look. There are root stock sizes in between, ask your nursery for advise.

The best time to plant apple trees is in the bare root season, when the trees are dormant, from late November to early March as a rough rule of thumb.

Pollination, apart from the self-fertile varieties all apple trees will need a pollinator variety. So if the tree you choose is in pollinator group 3 then choose a campaign tree from either group 3 or from an adjoining group in this case 2 or 4.

Here are some apple varieties I would deferentially give house room to.

Early Fruiters

Apple Discovery: Well rounded rosy fruit with a crisp juicy flavour. Good disease resistance and frost tolerance. Picking time is late July-early August. This variety does not keep well so enjoy it’s delights while you can. Pollination group 3.

A. Discovery

A. Discovery

Apple George Cave: This old variety has a refreshing flavour and crops heavily and regularly. Fruit is ripe end of July and into early August. Stored well they will keep till October. Pollination group 2.

A. Geogre Cave

A. Geogre Cave

Late Eaters

Apple Rosemary Russet: Fruit is orange to reddish brown flushed over golden russet. Medium sized fruits with a sweet-sharp taste. Picking late September to early October and keeping if stored well till February. Pollination group 3

A. Rosemary Russet

A. Rosemary Russet

Apple Winter Gem: Pink flushed fruit with rich and aromatic flavour. A reliable heavy cropping variety. Pick in October and store well for fruit up till Christmas. Pollination group 3.

A.Winter Gem

A.Winter Gem

Self-fertile Eaters

Apple Cox’s Orange Pippin: This surely above all other apples must be the variety that evokes home grown apples and quite rightly so with it’s distinctive aromatic crisp and juicy flavour. Fruits are golden flushed red and orange. Pick September into October, will store till November.

A. Cox's Orange Pippin

A. Cox’s Orange Pippin

Apple Christmas Pearmain: Green- yellow fruits with firm flesh and good fresh flavour. Picking time late September.

A. Christmas Pearmain

A. Christmas Pearmain

Dual Purpose Apples

As the name suggests, both for cooking and eating, the apples start with a tart flavour and then mellow with storage into an eater.

Apple Blenheim Orange: one of the best dual use apples with large golden fruits, that has a creamy flesh which is crisp,dry with a nutty flavour. A heavy cropper. Pick early October and store well to January. PLEASE NOTE: this variety is a triploid, so it needs 2 pollinating apples, Pollination group 3.

A. Belenheim Orange

A. Belenheim Orange

Apple James Grieve: A good apple for a difficult site, does well in northern gardens. Crops heavily and regularly. A green-yellow red flushed fruit of soft texture which is juicy and tangy. Pick late August early September. Pollination group 3.

A. James Grieve

A. James Grieve

Cooking Apples

What Sunday lunch in the autumn could be with out Apple Pie? Here are tow varieties that are packed full of flavour.

Apple Bountiful: This is a compact variety that will fit well into a smallish garden. Large green fruit blushed red, with a juicy crisp flavour. It is a heavy and regular cropper. Pick late September and store well, till March. Pollination group 3.

A. Bountiful

A. Bountiful

Apple Bramley’s Seedling: By far the most popular cooking apple of them all, it’s large trees produce branches laden with fruit and it will no doubt be this variety of apple that your friends and neighbours are piling upon you in bucketfuls of free gifts. It is a prolific cropper of large round green/yellow fruits with a firm white flesh and strong crisp juicy flavour, that makes great pies! Picking time early-mid October. Store the fruit well and you will still be making pies well into early spring. Pollination group 3.

A. Bramley's Seedling

A. Bramley’s Seedling

Storage: It should be a clean, dry and dark space with some ventilation and free from mice, and any strong flavours or smells do not store with the onions or next to the creosote. Pick when it is dry weather, line with newspaper low plastic or wooden  boxes. Dry fruit and carefully make sure the fruit you store does not have any blemishes. Place fruit in rows. Check your fruit boxes at least once a week to remove any apples going rotten the paper may well need changing at this point.

So now is the time to go and do some edible research, whether it is sampling the fruit of friends and neighbours and taking note of which varieties you like or going to some Apple Day events, at Brighton Apple Day 2nd October www.brightonpermaculture.org.uk or Apple fair at West Dean 1&2nd October www.westdean.org.uk Or RHS Wisley has a huge variety of apple trees and sells different fruits for you to try.

Once you have your list and if you want help creating your own orchard, then do give me a ring. Tel:01273 470753.

Happy Apple tasting!

High Summer Drama

Gone are the gentle soft pastels of roses, peonies and wisteria of mid summer as the temperature rises, the smoke of endless BBQ’s lifts into the air and we stretch out the sun loungers to catch the high summer rays, August pulls us into the vibrant colours of high summer.

This is the time of year in a British garden when vibrant strong colour looks at thier best in the garden and there are a range of brilliant herbaceous perennials which foot the bill perfectly.

Crocosmia 'Lucifer'

Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’

Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’: a clump forming perennial that quickly increase, it will tolerate most soils apart from heavy clay and being water logged and it can be planted in sun or part shade. It has bold upright swords of mid green foliage and tall flower stems of neat bell like flowers in eye popping red. It adds a dramatic blast of colour. 1-1.2m high and flowering from July to September.

Helenium 'Morerheim Beauty'

Helenium ‘Morerheim Beauty’

Helenium ‘Morerheim Beauty’: A prairie plant from central USA, liking moist soils, an upright clump forming perennial. Which packs a big punch with it’s rust coloured daisy flowers with yellow buttoned stamens and long flowering season. Full sun, 90cm-1m high July-October.

Helianthus 'Lemon Queen'

Helianthus ‘Lemon Queen’

Helianthus ‘Lemon Queen’: ‘The sun flower’ another great prairie plant from the mid USA to the south, coping well with chalky soils and drier conditions than Helenium. Can make great sweeps of plants with spreading rhizomes for the big boarder with a big impact. Flowers large lemon daisy heads, with darker central stems. Full sun, 1.5m high and flowering August to October and beyond.

Kniphofia ‘Nancy’s Red’: A brilliant small ‘red hot poker’ for the front of the boarder, With clumps of thin sword leaves and flame red flower spikes held above, that push the vibrant colours of high summer through to late summer and the autumn with a long flowering season. Full sun. 50cm high, flowering from July to October.

Salvia x jamensis 'Hot Lips'

Salvia x jamensis ‘Hot Lips’

Salvia x jamensis ‘Hot lips’: Almost 3 plants in one, you get a lot of wow with this perennial. A clump forming bushy habit with small trumpet like flowers born up the flower stems. Flowering in June it is brilliant cherry red by July-August it hits it’s ‘hot lips’ best with a red upper lip and a white bottom one, by September into October as the day light hours shorten it turns to striking white. This chameleon of salvia’s deserves a place in any summer planting. Full sun, well drained soil. 90-1m high.

Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivatii 'Goldstrum'

Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivatii ‘Goldstrum’

Rudbeckia fulgida var. ‘sullivatii Goldstrum’: A north american beauty from USA/Mexico. ‘Black Eyed Susan’ clumps of erect stems of butter yellow daises with a black button of stems. Grows well in humus rich soils in full sun. Flowering from July to the first frosts, some times till mid November, it’s ‘marathon’ flowering season makes it an essential for the high summer boarder. 70-90cm high.

Ligularia 'Britt Marie Crawford'

Ligularia ‘Britt Marie Crawford’

Ligularia ‘Britt Marie Crawford’: Dramatic round leaves form clumps of purple foliage, with tall flower spikes of daisy flowers in orange-yellow. A must for a shady moist to boggy planting spot giving a splash of late summer colour. 1.50m high, flowering August -September.

Ligularia 'The Rocket'

Ligularia ‘The Rocket’

Ligularia ‘The Rocket’: Smaller clumps of round mid green leaves, with towering near black stems with masses of small brilliant yellow flowers that form a dense flower spike, makes a sweep of this perennial a highlight of the shady bog garden. Humus rich damp soil. 1.80m high, flowering July-August and into September.

These vivid herbaceous perennials are at their best when planted in a mixed boarder with good strong foliage textures from shrubs, other herbaceous plants and grasses and add that high note of colour that the strong light of high to late summer can take.

So as you enjoy the summer heat, spot those areas of the garden that are looking a little drab as we hit the summer days of August and decide where a splash of colour can lift the spirit.

If you need help replanning a flower boarder to give it a high summer note, then I know a woman who can help. Give me a ring, Tel:01273 470753. To get planning and planting early this autumn ready for next years high summer colour drama.

The Joys of the Summer Garden

Now is the time to really reap the rewards of all your hard work, the evenings are long and barmy, the garden is full of summer scents, time to sit back and enjoy it all!

Lewes Maritime Garden

Lewes Maritime Garden

Seating in a garden of any size it a must, from the all weather bench which stays in place all year round so you can grab that bit of last season sun on a Sunday afternoon in October or a sunny winter morning in February. To the versatile folding deck chair that can follow the sun round in mid summer so you can delight in different aspects of your garden at different times of the day. To the formal paved terrace with table and chairs to a small hidden patio with swing seat, all have their place.

by Arcadia, A Hove town garden.

by Arcadia, A Hove town garden.

Now is the time to get into your garden and really use it with afternoon teas, weekend drinks, mid-week suppers and full blown BBQ’s. Seats in shady quite spots for reading out of the midday heat to sun loungers on the lawn. To seats by wildlife ponds so the insect action can be enjoyed. Now is the time to make the most of your garden.

by Arcadia, wildlife pond, Tonbridge Wells.by Arcadia, wildlife pond, Tonbridge Wells.

by Arcadia, wildlife pond, Tonbridge Wells.

Spot the areas of the garden you use and some you may want to use more, decide if a bench is needed on the edge of a lawn or path or whether a larger paved seating area is needed.

by Arcadia, A Cottage Rose garden

by Arcadia, A Cottage Rose garden

Be careful with paved seating areas, they must be in scale for the garden as a whole. The temptation is to go big and not have enough planting incorporated into it, any garden element needs to link with the rest of the garden. After all having a terrace big enough for 8 to dine is large and if most of the time it is just two of you then perhaps a smaller terrace where 4 sit comfortably may be better. Then extra tables and chairs can flow out onto the lawn when the 8 people for the family gathering show up twice a year.

by Arcadia,Walled Garden.

by Arcadia,Walled Garden.

It is also a great time of year to go garden visiting, whether this is large gardens open to the public, where we can all ooh and Arr over the large flower beds and beautifully gardened planting. At a smaller more personal scale, gardens that are open in the national gardening scheme. www.ngs.uk. To garden trails opened by our neighbours round town districts or villages, where we get to see what works well in gardens of a similar size as ours and perhaps if they live one street away you can pick up helpful hints about what will grow well in your own garden.

by, Arcadia,Walled Garden

by Arcadia, modern town garden

So down tools for a bit, stop worrying about the weeds and the slugs and snails and just sit back and enjoy or get out there and enjoy someone else hard work!

The Wonders of Wisteria

Varieties and maintenance.

June brings the sight of one of the most beautiful and dramatic of climbers, the Wisteria. The side of a building or a large tree dripping in the long racemes of light mauve flowers is a glorious opener to the summer flowering season. This is a mighty plant in many respects not only dose it put on a brilliant vibrant show it has a formidable growing habit. This climber is no shrinking violet even if it has lightly perfumed show stopper flowers. This climber comes from the foothills of mountains in Japan and China and in it’s native habitat scrambles up trees on the edge of forest margins to reach the light. So a 6ft garden fence or some dominative ornamental arch you have brought from the garden centre will not be a good home for this mighty beast.

Varieties: Wisteria sinensis, from China and perhaps the most planted Wisteria in Britain vigorous growth habit reaching 18 to 30m in height, with racemes up to 30cm long, flowering May-June. Two good varieties are W.sinensis ‘Black Dragon’ with dark purple flowers.

Wisteria sinenensis 'Black Dragon'

Wisteria sinsensis ‘Black Dragon’

W.sinensis ‘Plena’ with delicate double flowers of soft lilac.

Wistia sinensis 'Plena'

Wistia sinensis ‘Plena’

Wisteria floribunda, from Japan, flowers with the leaves in May-June. A less vigorous plant reaching heights of 4m.

W.floribunda ‘Alba’, normally flowers earlier than it’s purple counter part, trusses of white flowers with a mauve tinge 45 to 60cm in length.

Wisteria floribunda 'Alba'

Wisteria floribunda ‘Alba’

W. floribunda ‘Macrobotrys’, this is the ‘big daddy’ of the wisteria world and if you have the room to really show off it’s 1m long flower trusses to the for in the form of a very large pergola with a sturdy lattice work for this big beast to scramble over. So the 1m long flowers can hang in a dramatic purple curtain down through the frame work, for you to walk under and enjoy. Then this surely is the Wisteria for you. That or the side of a very large building indeed.

Wisteria floribunda 'Macrobotrys'

Wisteria floribunda ‘Macrobotrys’

Wisteria care: Now there is a lot said about pruning of wisterias and a lot of mystic surrounds it to. So I am going to try to give some good basics to get you started in the right direction.

A new wisteria: training it on a wired wall.

A) Pruning on planting

1) Cut back the leader to a strong bud approx. 75-90cm above ground level,taking care not to cut below the graft union on grafted cultivators.

2) Remove any existing laterals to stimulate a strong leading shoot.

B) 1st year summer

1) tie in the leading shoot vertically.

2) Select 2 strong laterals and tie them in at 45. angles. Prune any side shoots to about 15cm or to 3 or 4 buds, to begin the formation of flowering spurs.

30 Surplus laterals can be removed.

C) 2nd Year winter

1) Cut back the leading shoot to about 75cm above topmost of the laterals.

2) Lower the pair of laterals and tie into the lowest horizontal wires. Prune them back by approx. 1/3 of their length, to strong ripe growth.

D) 2nd Year summer

1) Continue to tie in the leading shoot.

2) Select the next pair of strong laterals and tie them in at 45. angle.

3) Remove unwanted growth at the base or form the main stem, cutting out completely to it’s point of origin.

4) Tie in the new leading shoot of each lateral, and spur-prune any side shoots back to about 15cm or 3 to 4 buds.

E) 3rd Year winter

1) Cut back the leading shoot to about 75cm above the highest laterals.

2)Lower the topmost laterals and tie in to the nearest horizontal wire.

3) Prune all laterals back by 1/3 to strong growth.

F) Pruning an established Wisteria summer.

1) Continue to tie in the main lateral growths and cut them back when allotted space has been covered.

2) About 2 months after flowering (August), cut back laterals and side shoots to with in 5 to 6 buds,or 15cm of a main branch.

G) Pruning an Established Wisteria winter.

1) Once plant is well established then the planting can and ties can be removed.

2) Cut back the laterals and side shoots pruned in the summer to with in 2 or 3 buds of their base. These will bear the coming seasons flowers.

3) Remove wispy late summer growth made after the summer prune.

4) There should now be several tiers of laterals tied in horizontally.

PLEASE NOTE: these are general guide lines only.

A wisteria in full flower really is a wonder to behold if all this pruning is sounding like hard work and a bit time consuming and complicated and you have a large well established Wisteria that needs some serious TLC and need someone to give you a hand then I know a woman who can. Give me a ring tel:01273 470753. So I can come and help.

In Delight of the not so humble Daffodil

As the early snowdrops fade away the first real signs of spring emerge in the from of the often taken for granted daffodil. There is so much more to this wonderful genus of bulbs, than bright large custard yellow trumpets on stout stems. They come in a multitude of shapes, sizes and delicate colours and a long flowering season from January to May, there must surely be one to suit every one and most garden positions.

The Earlys; adding a brilliant splash of golden colour on a dreary January day.
Narcissi Rijnevels early sensation, is the earliest of them all and well worth a secluded spot near the house.

N.Rijnveld's early sensatio

N.Rijnveld’s early sensatio

Another of my faverate is the elegant N. ‘peeping Tom’ flowering January to
February.

N.'Peeping Tom'

N.’Peeping Tom’

Of course one of the wondrous early spring sights is great sweeps of daffodils planted in lawns and under trees naturalising into great blocks of planting. These two varieties are well known for their ability to multiply.

Naturalising; N. mounthood, white outer petals with a cream trumpet, make this a good mid season faverate flowering in April.

N.mount hood

N.mount hood

N. poeticus recurrus, this is the old pheasant eye narcissi and is a late season sensation flowering in May, the delicate white outer petals make it ideal under planting in Orchards with blossom in flower at the same time.

N.poeticus recurrus

N.poeticus recurrus

For pots and rockeries, smaller varieties are needed.

Dwarf Varieties; N. Little Gem, a clear yellow, 15-20cm flowering in April.

N.Little Gem

N.Little Gem

N. Jack Snipe a good reliable variety with cream petals and a lemon trumpet 15cm flowering in March.

Scented Narcissi are an added treat for the early spring garden, plant them on the corner of paths or next to the back door, an enclosed courtyard will give maximum effect. Or just grow them to have as cut flowers; in a large jug with some spring stems of coloured dog wood and hazel with catkins, their scent will fill a room.

Scented Narcissi; N.fragrant Rose, a delicate variety with creamy petals and a rose pink central cup, very fragrant flowers, April.

N. Fragant Rose

N. Fragant Rose

N. cheerfulness, small creamy white, multi-headed double clusters are borne on each stem. Good scent, flowering in April.

N. Fragant Rose

N. Fragant Rose

So now is the time to get inspired take notes of the different varieties of daffodils you see flowering and what you may want to plant for next season. Also spot those areas of the garden where a bright daffodil splash will add that extra spring lift to your garden. They will tolerate most growing conditions apart from deep shade and water logging. The shorter varieties will even cope with quite exposed sites. You want to be ordering your bulbs August/September for October delivery, with planting up to beginning of December, but no latter.

So happy Narcissi spotting!

A Christmas wreath from the garden

There is nothing more wonderful at Christmas than bringing the garden into the house. From garlands of holly and ivy and sprigs of mistletoe, to pots of scented forced bulbs of Hyacinths and paper white Narcissi to the brilliant red of poinsettias and bloucy pink giant cyclamen all are a joy. The icing on the cake of course, is a fresh cut Christmas tree that now sees the humble Norway spruce on the back foot out striped by sturdier and more house friendly ‘non-drop’ varieties of conifers.

But the welcoming show piece that invites both friends and family and Christmas into you home has to be a Christmas wreath on the front door. When that goes up it feels like the festive season really has arrived.

They are easy to make and most gardens have a variety of the raw ingredients needed, you can be as imaginative as you wish, from purists with just ‘naked foliage’, to adding some sparkle by using gold and sliver sprays, to adding Christmas glass balls and flashing lights and everything in between. Also who ever said it had to be round, go wild, square, triangular, or just some draped ivy with a luxuriant red velvet bow, why not?

Top tips for making your own Christmas wreath.

1) making you basic frame; decide on the shape, traditional or your own individual style?

frame for Christmas wreath

Also the size is very important it must be in scale with the door it is going on, think of the postman here, they still need to be able to get at your letter box and you and everyone else the door handle, don’t get to carried away.

I find vines are the best for making a frame that is strong but flexible enough to bend into the desired shape. Have some thin green garden wire at the ready cut into lengths. Cut about three lengths of vine, remove the leaves, start warping the vine into the shape and size you want. The thickness of three strands should be enough, otherwise you will have a very dense frame that will be heavy and stand very proud of the door. Making it an easy target for barging shoulders in overcoats and winter gales. Use the wire to secure your frames shape, leave any longer sections of wire to help secure the foliage.

foliage hunting

2) Now get foliage hunting; cut all foliage to good lengths to allow you to weave it into the frame to secure it. A good evergreen base layer is needed, it can be holly, or ivy with fruiting berries.

vy with fruit heads

varigated ivy

or another evergreen shrub like Viburnum tinus or the common bay. Also choose some variegated foliage, either holly, ivy or Euronymus all are good.

3) The decorative touch; seed heads these can look striking sprayed with gold or sliver or even glitter spray. Alliums, Agapanthus, mop headed hydrangeas and of course teasels

4) Add the colour; Now of course we would all like holly trees dripping with red berries as featured on Christmas cards but for most of us the berry part of our wonderful hollies can be a little bit of a disappointment and if we are lucky enough to have a laden tree the chances are the birds have been feasting since September. So find another source to add that festive splash of red. Cotoneaster, Pyracanthus and of course red rose hips all would work very well.

rose hips

Once it is all safely gathered now is the time to get creative, whether on piles of news paper on the kitchen floor in the green house or garden shed. If you are going to use decorative festive sprays to add a bit of glitz then make sure you have lots of paper down and it is will ventilated.

winter foliage

5) First decide which way is up on your frame, hold it up on the front door. Now add a good length of wire round the frame for attaching the wreath to the front door.

6) Spray the seed heads and foliage, allowing them time to dry.

7) Start weaving your base layer onto the front face of the frame, tieing in with wire.

holly on frame

8) Now add your variegated and sprayed foliage.

sprayed foliage

9) Next add in your seed heads and berries, they can either be spread evenly round the whole wreath or be in groups.

10) Make sure everything is securely wired or woven into the frame it has to last a month and the winter winds.

completed wreath

11) Hanging your Christmas wreath, either from the door knocker or a hook or wide headed screw, both which can be painted to match the door so they are there for many more Christmases to come.

12) Use the wire to attach the wreath firmly to the door.

13) The finishing touch; a ribbon of your choice, traditional red but perhaps you want sky blue pink and as wide or narrow as you desire.

vy with fruit heads

Decorative Christmas Door Spray.

If you have less time and no access to materials to make a good frame then a very quick but equally beautiful Christmas door decoration is a spray of foliage.

1) Gather together foliage as above but make sure it is nice and long. Also add some long tendrils of climbing ivy either common or variegated.

2) Having looked at your door and decided how large, wide and long the spray should be with out interfering with door knobs and letter boxes, start work on your decorative Christmas spray.

3) Lay out your base evergreen layer, fan it out to the desired width.

4) add 2 or 3 long tendrils of ivy which will hang below the main body of the Christmas spray.

5) next add your variegated and sprayed foliage.

6) Decorative touch; add the sprayed seed heads.

7) Finally the berries so they lie down at different heights through the spray.

8) Now it is really important to make sure your creation, looks even and balanced and it is not heavy with foliage on one side, it dose not have to be huge to have impact, don’t forget this has to hang on the door and stay there, don’t get too carried away.

9) Next hang it on the door as above.

vy with fruit heads

10) The finishing touch, the ribbon now you can go a little wild you want about 1.5/2m in length to give you a generous bow at the top and long ribbons that wind through the spray and dip below it down to the ivy.

vy with fruit heads

I delight in bringing the garden in at Christmas and getting creative, great vases stuffed full of different hollies, gleaned fruiting ivy heads and sprayed seed heads from artichokes to alliums, and the berries and hips on anything I can find, shelves are cleared and stacked in boxes for the festive season so I can have as many over flowing vases of wonderful mid winter foliage as possible.

vy with fruit heads

I even have a Christmas tree made of rich red cornus branches hanging with Christmas bobbles and other decorations.

But one of the simplest and most effective of all is to save and dry the heads of Allium Cristophii and A. Schubertii, then spray them sliver. Hang then on a long tread below a light and as they move on the indoor warmth they look like giant snow flakes, quite magical.

Go on get out there, see what treats your winter garden has, get creative!

……………..and enjoy the merry and festive season.

New April 2015

New Specialist Gardening Service

To meet all your gardening needs, from maintenance visits once a week to every fortnight, to once a month, Or quarterly visits. Emily Blake-Dyke has full horticultural training, with over 20 years of experience in all aspects of gardening; from restoring mature gardens, with pruning of large shrubs, to looking after small modern courtyards to extensive mixed boarders to wildlife ponds and bog garden maintenance to rose gardens to looking after orchards, with specialist top fruit pruning and soft fruit gardening to doing battle with large climbers. Every type of garden from town gardens to large country retreats. I have the expertise you need and an extensive plant knowledge. Let me look after your garden through out the year so you can enjoy the very best from your garden.

To find out more about the Specialist Gardening Service contact Emily Blake-Dyke on 01273 470753 or 07745 514900, or go to the contacts page and fill in the form. I look forward to hearing from you, so we can discuss your gardening requirements and fees.

New Garden Advice service

You may just want some advise for your garden, so you as a keen gardener can carry out the work yourself. Even the most experienced gardeners can some times do with a fresh pair of horticultural eyes looking over their garden. Be it to advise on some general garden maintenance, areas where you may like to carry out new planting, pruning, dividing existing herbaceous plants and transplanting plants to better positions in the garden. Ideas on the position of new garden features you are planning for your garden. Why not get some professional advise to help you?

The Garden Advice Service is charged per hour, and is invoiced and paid for at the end of the visit, to find out more and book your garden advise visit. Call Emily Blake-Dyke on 01273 470753 or 07745 514900 or visit the contact page. I look forward to hearing from you.